DAY SEVEN -- September 23, 2009

9:29 am -- after breakfast and  Ed’s daily check-in with James Taylor -- we leave for a day in Jamestown, VA  -- about a ninety minute drive.

The latest update on the Navigator is:   Rudder to be picked up first thing tomorrow morning -- boat hauled --  rudder and other parts installed -- underway by early afternoon.  But ---- remember this is boating -- no guarantees.

11:09 am -- an encounter with a volunteer at the Visitor Center in Jamestown sets the pace for the rest of our day.  She is wonderful --  in addition to telling us what to do in  Jamestown, she says, “Now, go back using the free ferry to cross the James River over  to Surrey.  Then stop in Smithfield, VA where the hams are smoked.  It is a lovely town I know the ladies will enjoy. Lastly be sure to have dinner at The Smithfield Inn.”   We are all set. 

Over the footbridge we go to the Jamestown Plantation -- which, since 1994, is an active archaeological dig.  Visitors are encouraged to view the dig and be present as dirt is sifted and artifacts are unearthed. 

12:30 pm -- we are at the appointed location to meet our National Park Service Ranger for a tour of the site.  This guy knows his stuff and has great delivery -- we couldn’t ask for a better combination.  He explains how Jamestown was settled and that it was always thought the ruins of the original settlement had disappeared under the James River.  In 1994 Dr. Kelsey -- an archaeologist begged to differ.  The guide went through the process used by Dr. Kelsey to determine where the original fort might have been.  Sure enough during the first week of digging in 1994 evidence is found of the existence of one of the walls of this 1607 fort -- so exciting.  Excavations have been ongoing ever since. 

After the tour we visit the museum holding 1,000 artifacts found on the site -- including a human skeleton with a bullet still lodged in his knee -- they think he bled to death.  Unfortunately, the skeleton is on loan to the Smithsonian --- Ed is so disappointed.

2:22 pm -- we are the last car to board the ferry across the James River.  The crossing could not have been better.  Landing in Surrey, our travel to Smithfield continues over some very pretty country roads.

3:11 pm -- after passing the huge Smithfield Ham processing plant -- entering the Town of Smithfield, VA  is like time-traveling back 125 years.  Victorian homes are everywhere --- most have been renovated with colors and detail befitting the 1890’s.   And -- you can smell ham everywhere.

We park the car and see a large building with a “visitors welcome” sign -- it is the old court house and there is a docent sitting on the front porch working her needlepoint just waiting for tourists.  She gives us a very thorough history of Smithfield and suggests  a trip to Darden’s Country Store (just outside town) -- the last independent smokehouse in the area still giving tours.

A stop at the Smithfield Ham store is in order.  In addition to hams and bacon they sell about 50 kinds of nuts -- all available for sampling --- we try every one  -- some more than once. Of course -- Captain Ed buys a very large Smithfield Ham and has it shipped home.

The Visitor’s Center is our next stop --- housed in the midst of a number of artists studios -- with their work displayed and for sale.   They have great stuff --- I wish I could have bought a couple of the paintings.

Next it’s off to Darden’s Country Store (established in 1952) -- for the tour of the smokehouse.  The Visitor Center calls ahead so the Dardens are expecting us.

4:47 pm -- We meet Tommy Darden -- he takes us to his smokehouse explaining the  entire process --- he gives us samples of his ham -- he shows us his fields where his plants include -- peanuts, soy and cotton and the biggest scarecrow named “Strawman”.

5:30 pm -- back to the Smithfield Inn for dinner -- what a place. From the moment we step under the awning -- onto the porch -- into the front hallway and the dining room, we are convinced that it is 1895.  Our dinner is superb!

What a nice day we’ve had -- meeting wonderful, friendly and helpful people. If I sound like I’m describing a movie on the Hallmark Channel,  that’s what it felt like all day long -- people were so nice to us.

We do pretty well getting back except for a small glitch outside Norfolk -- Navigator Mary Ann on the iPod and First Mate Pat backing her up with a map save the day.  Of course Captain Ed is behind the wheel shouting orders.  We’re back in the shed by 8:00 pm.

A quick game of Rummikub and we’re off to bed.

Will the Navigator leave the shed tomorrow?  Stay tuned.